uring a hair color consultation, I love it when a prospective client says, "I've always wanted to be (insert dream color), but my colorist always told me that (insert negative, dream-destroying sentence)."
Sometimes the colorist’s advice is based on sound color theory, but too often the colorist dissuades the client from attempting their chosen hue out of fear and inexperience. With your input, an experienced colorist can help you choose a hair color that will complement and enhance your skin tone, eye color, and personal style while giving you the look you desire.
Coordinating Hair Color and Skin Tone
Skin tone is the first thing I consider when selecting a hair color. Typically, skin with pink tones coordinates with cool, pearl-based lighter blond shades, especially if the client tans well. Clients with extremely fair skin with creamy undertones and hints of pink and orange look spicier with a warmer color—amber, apricot, ginger blond, and copper-auburn shades. If the skin tone is sallow, blue-green ash based, deeper tones like toffee, tawny caramels, and chocolates will add a little warmth.
Those with darker complexions, should stay on the cooler side of the spectrum. This can be tricky to achieve because these clients typically have very dark hair, which means lots of warmth (red and orange) when it is lightened. A green-based gold looks wonderful and will help neutralize any unwanted warmth.
Coordinating Hair Color and Eye Color
A simple way to refine your color choices is to examine your eyes. Look at the colors in the iris, including the minute flecks of color within it, and decide what effect you want your new hair color to have. Are your eyes blue with slivers of silver and white? Try a pale blonde dye with cooler golden mid-lights to make your blue eyes pop even more. To add a buttery dimension and to enlarge hazel eyes with warm golden glints, contrast them against a slightly warmer blond. Artistically scattered chestnut highlights can add an illusion of depth and shine to a mysterious brunette with hints of pumpkin in her brown eyes. Those with dark brown eyes and almost jet-black hair can have some fun with a few Merlot streaks that will make the eyes and base hair color even more dramatic.
Coordinating Hair Color with Personal Style
Once the color path has been determined, the real fun begins. You get to decide who you want to be and what you want your hair color to say. Communicating your decision to the colorist is fundamental. Do you want the color to whisper, talk, or scream? A businesswoman or entrepreneur may want a touch of excitement, but not nearly as much as that tattoo parlor owner in the Che Guevara tank top. Whatever the case may be, there is an appropriate level at which your desired color can work for you.
Communicating with a Colorist
Since trust and communication are such an important part of determining your approach to hair color, only work with a qualified professional with whom you feel comfortable. A strong client/colorist relationship can lead to greater success in planning, executing, maintaining, and, most importantly, enjoying your new look.








By Victoria Klein, Dec 11, 2008
Of all the many years I spent coloring my hair (which I started doing in high school), I never got a professional consultation on which shade would be best for me ... but it sounds fantastic!
By Ela J, Jan 12, 2009
Does anyone know what a "buttery blonde" girl can do to keep my hair looking shiny and full of life?
It always looks good when I leave the salon but then starts to get dull right away?
I wonder if one of these "glazes" would help?
By Carlo DeCarlo, Jan 14, 2009
Here's the deal. Someone near and dear to me has recently changed her hair coloring from blond to redhead. The thing is, the red sooooo doesn't work for her. It's way too brassy. The most red she should strive for is perhaps a strawberry blond. I want to say something, but she gets insulted easily. And the other thing is that she colors at home (a salon colorist is not in her budget), and I know that a good colorist or stylist would never have allowed that unnatural color to ever happen.
Should I say something? if so, what?
By Elizabeth B, Jan 18, 2009
This is a helpful primer on what works well for your overall coloring. I will show this article to my high school daughters AND my hair stylist!
By Elizabeth B, Mar 30, 2009
I love this article! Sometimes I am not too sure if my color tends towards red just a bit too much. I think I'll print out this article and take to my next appointment.
By Carolyn Schlicher, Apr 23, 2009
Hey John...I'd love to hear some of your diplomatic responses when someone comes to you enthusiastic about his/her color and you don't like it. (Or do you ever not like the color?)
I just go blank when someone comes up to me who has made this dramatic change that seems to clash with everything and wants a compliment. Help!
By Amy L, May 28, 2009
Very detailed advice! I have green undertones on my very pale skin and rosacea! I found a light blonde - which to me seems more a very light brown with caramal high lights worked in ( I have curly hair so it works well) looks good on me. Its sooooooo high maintainence for a stay at home mom of a toddler though.
By Karyn Polewaczyk, Jun 16, 2009
Are there ever times when you recommend a person doesn't color his or her hair? I really love my natural color and the health that comes with not coloring. I also enjoy the fact that I see one of the best stylists in Boston and L.A. and can justify paying for his services alone versus downgrading to a junior stylist so that I can also afford a junior colorist.