Beauty Routines for Brown Skin

Finding the perfect cosmetic shades for women of color is made more complicated by the fact that there are an estimated 35 different skin shades among women of African descent alone.

inding the perfect cosmetic shades for women of color is made more complicated by the fact that there are an estimated 35 different skin shades among women of African descent alone. While cosmetic companies continue to create product lines for various ethnicities, there still is a lack of “diversity” in cosmetic color choices. Add to that our tendency toward pigmentation discolorations requiring us to camouflage dark or light patches in our skin and suddenly finding a foundation that can even out tone variations from face, neck, and chest reveals even more challenges. The first step is defining your tone and undertones.

	What goes on must come off or you’ll attract dirt, clogged pores, and cause breakouts.

Skin Tones and Undertones

How to Determine Your Skin Tone and Undertones

The predominant surface hue or shade generally falls into the broad categories of dark brown, medium brown, light brown, or yellow-beige, with many variations in between. The undertone is less visible, almost beneath the skin’s surface, but it is crucial because it gives a richness to our overall skin tone. Undertones are yellow, orange, and red, but some have olive or blue, as well. If you apply makeup that matches your tone but ignores the undertone, your makeup could look unnatural. Check for undertones on areas of your skin less exposed to sunlight or ask a makeup consultant. And, remember that skin tones vary by season, so you may need more than one foundation color.

Makeup Basics for Women of Color

How much makeup you use is a personal preference. After you’ve washed your face and applied a toner, moisturizer, and sunscreen, you’re ready to create your healthy glow. After consulting with many makeup artists who specialize in skin tones of women of color, they say that a polished, natural look is best achieved with concealer, foundation, powder, lipstick, and perhaps liner and mascara.

Concealer and Foundation

• Apply concealer (one shade lighter than your natural skin tone) to cover up discolorations or uneven areas. Use your fingers or a makeup sponge to blend these areas.
  
• For hyperpigmenting skin, consider using a foundation stick or a foundation in a compact for more coverage.
  
• Dust a layer of translucent powder (or pressed powder the same color as your foundation) over the face with a makeup brush or puff. This sets the foundation.

Makeup Application

• Apply eye shadows, liners, and/or mascara to accent your eyes.
  
• Apply blush just below cheekbones with a makeup brush or sponge.
  
• Apply lip liner (if you like the look) and two coats of lipstick for the finishing touch.

Tips for Choosing Makeup Products

Foundation for Oily Skin

• For oily skin, look for oil-free or water-based products. Matte or semi-matte formulas will look best.
  
• For normal/combination skin, use a water-based foundation.
  
• If you have an oily T-zone and dry cheeks, experiment with water and oil combination products. Semi-matte formulas work best.

Foundation for Dry Skin

For dry skin, opt for moisturizing foundations with some amount of oil or a combination of oil and water—but only if you don’t have acne.

Foundation for Acne-Prone Skin

• Oil-free is best if you’re acne prone.
  
• For sensitive skin always choose hypoallergenic. A light water-based foundation is best.
• For hyperpigmenting skin, consider using a foundation stick or a foundation in a compact for more coverage.

Powders

Powders may be translucent (sheer) or pigmented to match the color of your foundation. For most, sheer will do just fine.

Mascara, Eye Shadow, and Lipstick

Mascara

You might want to curl your lashes before you apply mascara. If you can’t remember how long you’ve had your tube of mascara, it probably needs to be replaced. Don’t let it become a breeding ground for bacteria.

Eye Shadow

Blend, blend, blend. Even if you use multiple colors, you shouldn’t be able to see the lines between the colors.

Lipstick

Many women of color have lips that are two different shades—darker on top and lighter on the bottom. Instead of using two different lipsticks, try filling in the lips with liner before applying lipstick to help even out the tones.

Makeup Removers

What goes on must come off or you’ll attract dirt, clogged pores, and cause breakouts. If you’re using water-based products, water will remove them. With oil-based makeup, use a makeup remover formulated for your skin type. But, be soft and gentle with your cleaning. Take good care and you’ll love the skin you’re in.