Skincare Tips for Women of Color

For women of color, melanin guards our skin from the long-term signs of aging, but also make it more reactive.

The Pros and Cons of Melanin

For women of color, melanin in the skin has upsides and downsides. Have you ever noticed that you look ten years younger than many of your white friends of the same age? This is because your skin has more melanin. One of the biggest advantages of higher melanin content is the greater protection it provides from sun damage. Melanin also guards our skin from the long-term signs of aging such as deep wrinkles, rough surface texture, and age spots.

On the downside, more melanin makes our skin more “reactive.” Rashes, scratches, pimples, or inflammation trigger more melanin, which results in dark marks or patches on the skin. Changes in melanin result in hyperpigmentation (too much melanin) or hypopigmentation (too little melanin) causing light or dark discolorations that could take months or years to correct. Handling your skin gently, wearing sunscreen, and preventing pigmentation problems are the keys to good skin care.

	Women of color should avoid products containing abrasives or granules that can irritate the skin.

Cleansing for Brown Skin

Think gentle when washing your face. First, choose a mild, nonirritating cleanser without abrasives for exfoliation. These harsh particles can irritate the skin and if you have acne, can even worsen the condition. Stay away from loofah sponges, acne puffs, or rough washcloths. Many women of color clean their faces too often or too roughly. Our pigmented skin needs gentle care to avoid irritation that can trigger discoloration or even keloid scarring. Cleanse gently with your fingertips or a soft cotton cloth. Rinse by splashing and try to avoid too hot or too cold water.

Know your skin type: oily, combination, normal, dry, sensitive, or hyperpigmenting. Then choose cleansing products to match. And remember, skin can change with the seasons, so your cleansing habits should change too.

Exfoliating for Brown Skin

Your skin is continually shedding dead skin cells, but sometimes those dead cells remain on the face causing a dull, dry appearance. If your complexion is dull, you will benefit from regular exfoliation with products containing alphahydroxy acids, polyhydroxy acid or betahydroxy acid. These exfoliants come in gels, lotions, creams, and masks and have a wide range of concentrations to suit your specific needs. Brown women really need to test a small area of the skin before using an exfoliant all over.

Deep Cleaning for Brown Skin

Facials, steaming, or masks on a weekly or monthly basis can make your skin look vibrant and clear. Steaming your face with water vapor temporarily adds moisture and will loosen dirt and dead skin cells for a softer feel and healthy glow. With masks, again women of color should avoid products containing abrasives or granules that can irritate the skin. Look for a clay mask if you have oily skin; a creamy moisturizing mask if you have dry skin. As for facials be sure to ask your esthetician what type is best for your skin. Facials can help exfoliate, clean pores, remove blackheads, and revitalize a dry or dull complexion. Be careful and ask questions before manual removal of blackheads. Removing deeply embedded blackheads for women of color can cause scarring or discoloration.

Toner for Brown Skin

Skin toners remove surface oil from the skin. For oily skin, toning helps clear the grease that clogs pores and makes them look larger. Toning can also minimize shine. How do you know if you should use a toner? After the application of toner, your skin should not feel dry and tight. It should feel soft and invigorated.

Moisturizing for Brown Skin

Moisture creams, lotions, and oils attract and trap moisture and oil in the skin, leaving it soft and supple. Moisturizing removes the dull, ashen look of dry skin many women of color experience. A good moisturizer does double duty by also protecting against wind and pollution. The key is to choose the right product that will keep your skin smooth but not clog your pores. Whether you choose an oil-based, water-based, oil-free, or vitamin-enriched moisturizer depends on your skin type and the season. Apply the moisturizer on damp skin after washing or showering to literally seal moisture into the top layer of your skin.

A cleanser for your skin type and a moisturizer with sunscreen are basic to any beauty routine. So, experiment until you find what works best for your beautiful brown skin.